THE village of Moreton, on the water meadows between Dorchester and Wareham, might seem rather off the beaten track but there are several reasons why it has become a popular destination.

Most obviously there are the TE Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) connections. Lawrence is buried in the new churchyard, and his funeral was held in the tiny and beautiful church of St Nicholas, which has the world-famous engraved glass windows by Laurence Whistler, installed after severe damage by a stray German bomber during the Second World War.

Just a few hundred yards from this place of pilgrimage, there is a picturesque old school which is a destination for those pilgrims whose object of devotion is Dorset cream teas and other culinary delights.

In just three years, Gordon and Kate Sutherland have turned Moreton Tea Roons into probably the best known tea room in Dorset if not the West Country.

That fame comes both by word of mouth from locals and visitors, and from a string of awards - three years running (2009, 2010 and 2011) the BVM's Taste of Dorset Best Cafe and Tearoom, the 2010 Taste of the West Tearoom of the Year, a finalist in the South West England Tourism Excellence Awards 2010-11 and gold in the 2011 Taste of the West Awards.

These awards are not lightly won - chef Gordie has earned his reputation by developing menus and dishes that reflect the quality of ingredients on his doorstep, including Woodsford Leaves watercress, Jurassic Veal, Williams of Wool, Snelling Farm of Moreton, Neway Meats of Wareham, and game from local estates.

As well as local sourcing, Gordie also welcomes locals bearing gluts - apples, vegetables, game and most recently quinces, which were being used on the day we visited as an aromatic glaze for guinea fowl. He also tried them out glazing Moreton pheasant and was pleased with the results.

Born near Aberdeen, Gordie went to the Royal Agricultural College at Cirencester and worked in various establishments, including a noted food pub in Sussex, a big hotel in Scotland and with Martin Lee at the Acorn and the Fox in West Dorset. He ran the cafe at Mapperton House and Gardens for a while, and with his wife Kate took over Moreton Tea Rooms three years ago.

They have turned the old village school, which closed in 1967, into a characterful cafe and bistro, with exposed brickwork, Lawrence's funeral bier as an elegant and unusual "table" for home-made cakes, and lots of historic photos, newspaper cuttings and memorabilia of Lawrence, the school and the area.

Gordie describes his style as "rustic, warming and hearty" with a regular menu that includes a soup of the day, Dorset Rarebit with Palmers ale, Roast Vegetable and Blue Vinny Pasty, Seafood Broth, and Stuffed Dorset Down Mushrooms with crispy bacon and brie.

There is always a specials board which, on the day we visited, included salmon fishcakes with red peppercorn mayonnaise, a rabbit and pork burger and twice-baked Woodsford Watercress souffle.

The cakes are justly famed - we shared slices of St Clements and plum cakes, but Rocky Road, almond and cherry cake and scones all looked appetising.

There is a wide selection of drinks, from various teas and coffees to soft drinks (my companion said the Palmers ginger beer was "fantastically good") and a small but carefully chosen wine list.

Winter opening at Moreton Tea Rooms is Friday-Sunday, 10am-4.30pm, plus Christmas bistro evenings on 9th and 10th December. The bistro can be booked for evening parties, and Gordie and Kate also have a catering business.

Contact 01929 463647 or www.moretontearooms.co.uk

Fanny Charles